Part two of the engine building series picks up right where things left off, covering everything from bearing installation all the way through first fire and ring break-in. If you are building a Cummins or planning to, this is the episode you do not skip.
Todd, Will, and Myer break down the full Morley bearing lineup, covering P, H, and V bearings and which one belongs in which build. Coated bearings, bearing installation technique, and why cleanliness between the bearing and saddle matters more than most guys realize all get covered in detail. Plastic gauge gets a thorough breakdown too, including an honest story about what happens when you misread a dial bore gauge.
Wrist pin clip orientation, rod direction by platform, crank galley cleaning, and which way rods go in a 12 valve versus a 24 valve versus a VP44 are all walked through in real shop language. So are crank gear welding, cam retainers, piston protrusion targets, firing head gasket installation, head stud torque sequence, and valve lash strategy.
The break-in section is worth the entire runtime on its own. Proper cam break-in, why you do it without coolant in the block, how to track oil temp with an infrared gun, and why ring break-in requires load are all covered. The crew explains why babying a fresh built diesel causes glazing and oil consumption issues, and breaks down break-in oil, first oil change timing, and cutting open the filter to check for debris.
If you are wrenching in the garage and want to build a Cummins that lasts, subscribe on YouTube and follow the Power Driven Podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen.
Everything the guys talked about in this episode, including Morley bearings, assembly lube, and Power Driven Diesel oil, is available at PowerDriven.com. Links below.
Shop Power Driven Diesel: https://www.powerdriven.com
0:00 Intro and recap of Part 1
1:38 Bearing types: P bearings, H bearings, and when to use each
4:08 V bearings explained: origin, purpose, and real world use
6:24 Coated bearings and King bearings overview
7:19 How to properly install bearings: cleaning, saddle prep, and contamination prevention
12:03 Plastic gauge: what it is, how to use it, and when it can save your build
18:00 Bearing tangs: orientation and installation
20:26 Rod direction by platform: 12 valve, 24 valve, and VP44
22:44 Crank galley cleaning and air quality tips
24:23 Piston ring installation: marks, orientation, and oil rings
25:04 Wrist pin clips: installation direction and square vs rounded edge debate
28:38 Cylinder wall preparation: Quick Seat vs engine oil
30:54 Welding the crank gear: when, why, and how
34:39 Cam gear prep, cam retainers, and Loctite use
36:55 Piston protrusion: targets, measurement, and what it means for performance
43:04 Pushrods and lifters: lube and assembly sequence
44:22 Head installation: firing rings, dowels, and 40mm hardware
48:38 Head stud torque sequence and lubing threads
54:08 Valve train lube: grease vs oil and what goes where
55:20 Setting valve lash: cold spec, pro tips, and saving yourself a second trip in
1:01:02 First startup prep: oil fill, oil filter, and no fan on the first fire
1:02:30 Oil pump installation: common mistakes and proper torque sequence
1:04:41 Cranking for oil pressure and first fire tips
1:08:51 Cam break-in procedure: RPM range, no coolant, and oil temp targets
1:13:21 Break-in oil: conventional vs synthetic and Power Driven oil discussion
1:17:47 Ring break-in: why you need load, what glazing actually is, and how to do it right
1:22:32 Post break-in maintenance: valve lash recheck, head stud retorque, and oil changes
1:26:07 Cutting open the oil filter and long term engine care tips
1:32:20 Wrap-up and outro
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